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Armor/AFV: Modern - USA
Modern Armor, AFVs, and Support vehicles.
Hosted by Darren Baker
Panda M-ATV
35th-scale
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Kildare, Ireland
Joined: November 21, 2007
KitMaker: 3,205 posts
Armorama: 2,800 posts
Posted: Tuesday, December 29, 2015 - 10:42 PM GMT+7
For my next build I'm going to tackle the Panda offering of the Oshkosh M-ATV, one of the sexiest modern vehicles in my opinion. And in a way is the descendant of the humble Jeep



From Wikipedia:
The M-ATV utilizes the Medium Tactical Vehicle Replacement (MTVR) chassis and TAK-4 suspension with the Plasan designed armored hull developed for the Northrop Grumman/Oshkosh JLTV Technology Development (TD) phase proposal.[30] The V-shaped Plasan armored hull offers protection for the occupants from IED attacks while a central tire inflation system (CTIS) and run-flat inserts allow the M-ATV to travel at least 30 miles at 30 mph even if two tires lose pressure. The vehicle can also take a 7.62 mm round to its engine oil/coolant/hydraulic system and continue to drive for at least one kilometer. The Stat-X engine fire suppression system provides for further survivability.[31]

The Tak-4 suspension is coil sprung and fully independent, and offers 16 inches of travel. The M-ATV's roof mounted turret is capable of mounting weapons such as an M240 machine gun, a Mk 19 grenade launcher, an M2 Browning machine gun, a MILAN anti-tank guided missile, or a BGM-71 TOW anti-tank guided missile launcher. The roof weapons can be operated either from the turret by person or remotely inside the cabin with a CROWS remote weapon system. The M-ATV also features modern vehicle safety systems such as traction control and anti-lock brakes in addition to modern creature comforts such as an HVAC system and power outlets for charging portable electronic devices.[5] Unique among MRAP vehicles are the M-ATV's rear-hinged, aka, suicide doors.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oshkosh_M-ATV

The Kit:


The kit has 8 large plastic sprues and 4 smaller ones. 3 frets of PE, 5 vinyl tyres, 2 sprues of clear parts and a large decal sheet.





Google will help you if you want to see each individual sprue.

Molding is quite nice but there are a lot of very tiny parts




Reviews of this kit have been mixed although I have seen some beautiful built up examples. The construction of the under-carrage is challanging I believe. And the interior is quite spartan so I've ordered the Pro-Art MRAP Radio set for it. And the Pro-Art MRAP stowage set just to add some extra bits in the back (pics when they arrive)


The decal sheet is quite large and seems to include a decal for the de-mist strips on the front windows an front door windows. It's a quite distinctive feature of the M-ATV and I was wondering how I'd recreate it so this is good news.







The decals all look very nice even with the macro lens.

Now for the actual build....

It's been hard work to get this done. Lots of cleanup on all the parts and everything has to be dry-fit first. In every single instance any hole for a piece to fit in was too small. Nothing fits correctly I could not recommend this kit to anyone and it explains why it's so hard to find a build log other than Pascal Bausset's on Armorama

But I will persevere....I'm too stubborn not to having ordered ProArt bits also for it







It's been fun 😓 but finally got the rear suspension done. That's taken about 3 good sessions at the bench



Not the cleanest and neatest I've ever done but it will do.

Now for the front....
Hisham
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Al Qahirah, Egypt / لعربية
Joined: July 23, 2004
KitMaker: 6,856 posts
Armorama: 6,363 posts
Posted: Tuesday, December 29, 2015 - 11:48 PM GMT+7
I applaud your bravery and patience

Hisham
35th-scale
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Kildare, Ireland
Joined: November 21, 2007
KitMaker: 3,205 posts
Armorama: 2,800 posts
Posted: Wednesday, December 30, 2015 - 01:17 AM GMT+7
Ha ha, thanks Hisham, insanity is probably more accurate.
andrekidbsb
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Distrito Federal, Brazil
Joined: April 03, 2006
KitMaker: 255 posts
Armorama: 246 posts
Posted: Wednesday, December 30, 2015 - 01:54 AM GMT+7
I'm taking courage to start my M-ATV. Congratulations and good 2016.
35th-scale
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Kildare, Ireland
Joined: November 21, 2007
KitMaker: 3,205 posts
Armorama: 2,800 posts
Posted: Wednesday, December 30, 2015 - 05:48 AM GMT+7
Thanks Andre, hopefully it won't take all of 2016 to finish it

Doing the front wheel suspension I attached the frames to the chassis first and will now attach the springs, wish-bones, hub etc
Should allow me to pose them in a turned position where both sides match.....hopefully 😀

galactica
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Milano, Italy
Joined: April 11, 2008
KitMaker: 97 posts
Armorama: 77 posts
Posted: Wednesday, December 30, 2015 - 11:21 AM GMT+7
I'm working on the same kits and I can confirm that assembling the various pieces is a nightmare. Not to mention too many microscopic parts !
On the positive side, the model has good details.
I have decided to use the ProArt interior upgrade set as well as you; I'm wondering if the extra effort to detail interiors will be visible because door glasses are very small and I doubt you can see a lot through them. Maybe the solution is to leave a couple doors open.
I'll closely follow your build.
35th-scale
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Kildare, Ireland
Joined: November 21, 2007
KitMaker: 3,205 posts
Armorama: 2,800 posts
Posted: Thursday, December 31, 2015 - 09:41 AM GMT+7
Thanks Ettore. Have you a build log? I just ordered the radio set, not the full interior.

Under-side done and thankfully sitting flush on the hubs. There weren't too many flaws in the instructions and the following pictures highlight some of them:


This early step might be better left until you are doing the front suspension if you want the wheels in the turned position. Was reasonably easy bit of surgery.




C7 & C8 are omitted from instructions for rear suspension but are on the sprues and have same marks for positions as front suspension.



Time to start on the top
Hisham
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Al Qahirah, Egypt / لعربية
Joined: July 23, 2004
KitMaker: 6,856 posts
Armorama: 6,363 posts
Posted: Thursday, December 31, 2015 - 10:06 AM GMT+7
Great job, Sean.. looks very nice. Now you can relax as the worst is over

Hisham
35th-scale
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Kildare, Ireland
Joined: November 21, 2007
KitMaker: 3,205 posts
Armorama: 2,800 posts
Posted: Thursday, December 31, 2015 - 11:38 AM GMT+7
I hope so Hisham, but the PE radio rack looks like it will be fun too....
jasegreene
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Florida, United States
Joined: October 21, 2013
KitMaker: 577 posts
Armorama: 577 posts
Posted: Thursday, December 31, 2015 - 02:55 PM GMT+7
This will be one build I will sure be following.
35th-scale
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Kildare, Ireland
Joined: November 21, 2007
KitMaker: 3,205 posts
Armorama: 2,800 posts
Posted: Wednesday, January 06, 2016 - 03:17 AM GMT+7
Good to have you on board Jason, hope I manage to keep you interested

The cables at the rear of the M-ATV are quite visible but not included in the kit.




So I decided these needed to be added.



Not exact, but better than nothing
Hisham
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Al Qahirah, Egypt / لعربية
Joined: July 23, 2004
KitMaker: 6,856 posts
Armorama: 6,363 posts
Posted: Wednesday, January 06, 2016 - 04:04 AM GMT+7
Nice job, Sean.. it's coming along nicely.

You know, for cables and things like that, I found the easiest thing to use is solder wire.. it's totally pliable and easy to bend any which way you want.. and it holds the shape.

Hisham
jvazquez
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New Jersey, United States
Joined: September 26, 2006
KitMaker: 822 posts
Armorama: 776 posts
Posted: Wednesday, January 06, 2016 - 04:16 AM GMT+7

Quoted Text

Good to have you on board Jason, hope I manage to keep you interested

The cables at the rear of the M-ATV are quite visible but not included in the kit.




So I decided these needed to be added.



Not exact, but better than nothing



Very nice! For those brake lines what did you user here? Electric wire, solder?
35th-scale
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Kildare, Ireland
Joined: November 21, 2007
KitMaker: 3,205 posts
Armorama: 2,800 posts
Posted: Wednesday, January 06, 2016 - 04:22 AM GMT+7
Just some 0.4mm & 0.6mm rubber pipes I had left over from the Bronco Buffalo build. Must get myself some solder wire as I have heard very good things about it.
jwest21
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Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: October 16, 2006
KitMaker: 3,082 posts
Armorama: 2,850 posts
Posted: Wednesday, January 06, 2016 - 02:18 PM GMT+7
Your excellent work motivated me to dig mine out from model purgatory.
35th-scale
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Kildare, Ireland
Joined: November 21, 2007
KitMaker: 3,205 posts
Armorama: 2,800 posts
Posted: Wednesday, January 06, 2016 - 09:20 PM GMT+7
Looking forward to seeing it Jason

Pro Art radio set arrived



And some more stowage bits



All very nicely moulded. And one can never have too much stowage.....
35th-scale
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Kildare, Ireland
Joined: November 21, 2007
KitMaker: 3,205 posts
Armorama: 2,800 posts
Posted: Friday, January 08, 2016 - 12:32 PM GMT+7
It's been a PE & Resin evening....not fun....but came out reasonably OK. Won't be very visable on the inside anyway but I couldn't leave those racks empty.



I'm not going to try cabeling all that radio gear! 😖
Epi
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Texas, United States
Joined: December 22, 2001
KitMaker: 3,360 posts
Armorama: 2,332 posts
Posted: Friday, January 08, 2016 - 12:51 PM GMT+7
Come on Sean, cable those radio's and equipment up. I don't mind helping you out with the correct places for the cables.
Hisham
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Al Qahirah, Egypt / لعربية
Joined: July 23, 2004
KitMaker: 6,856 posts
Armorama: 6,363 posts
Posted: Friday, January 08, 2016 - 03:55 PM GMT+7
I'm kind of with Pete (the instigator) on this.. it would be a shame to go through all that hard work of putting those PE racks together.. and then leave the radios without any wiring... Go for it

Hisham
galactica
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Milano, Italy
Joined: April 11, 2008
KitMaker: 97 posts
Armorama: 77 posts
Posted: Saturday, January 09, 2016 - 10:52 AM GMT+7
I'm working on the same model as Sean and I'm going to use the same ProArt comm equipment set.
Me too have decided not to wire the radios but since Pete is inviting to try it, I now believe I will face the challenge.

Pete, would you be so kind to show how the different items should be wired ?
35th-scale
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Kildare, Ireland
Joined: November 21, 2007
KitMaker: 3,205 posts
Armorama: 2,800 posts
Posted: Saturday, January 09, 2016 - 11:39 AM GMT+7
Ettore, now you've shamed me into trying also 😧 Please fell free to add your pics here to help me and anyone else interested in trying it. I think it could be applied to most MRAPs

So now Pete, we're both ready for your first lesson 😀
rogerjo1
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Västra Götaland, Sweden
Joined: November 12, 2010
KitMaker: 950 posts
Armorama: 905 posts
Posted: Saturday, January 09, 2016 - 12:09 PM GMT+7
Yes Pete, it would be nice of you if you could show us how the cables should be and what color they have... Have this kit too with pro art models update set...

Looking very good Sean
35th-scale
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Kildare, Ireland
Joined: November 21, 2007
KitMaker: 3,205 posts
Armorama: 2,800 posts
Posted: Saturday, January 09, 2016 - 01:06 PM GMT+7
These are the images from the Pro Art site which will help















Looks good but my problem is creating the cables and attaching them properly. Thick fingers and poor eyesight doesn't help.
Epi
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Texas, United States
Joined: December 22, 2001
KitMaker: 3,360 posts
Armorama: 2,332 posts
Posted: Saturday, January 09, 2016 - 03:10 PM GMT+7
Give me a day or 2 and I will have some good wiring diagrams drawn up along with pictures.

Don't go by the pictures of the Pro Art set. It is all wrong. I haven't seen what the instructions show, so I don't know if it right on them.

What comes in the Pro Art set is a AN/VRC-110 with 2 AN/PRC-152 in it. I will start with that first. The picture below shows what comes in the Maxx Pro kit and it doesn't have the PRC-152 mounted.



So guys, gather up your fine wire or solder wire, go through your spares box for extra "hand mikes," and I will get back with you guys shortly.

amoz02t
#192
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Kentucky, United States
Joined: November 25, 2009
KitMaker: 993 posts
Armorama: 969 posts
Posted: Saturday, January 09, 2016 - 04:28 PM GMT+7
Following this closely. Thank you Pete!