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Campaigns: Active Campaigns
Campaigns that are either in planning or underway should be grouped here.
Hosted by John Pereira
Crusader to Gazala Campaign
petbat
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Queensland, Australia
Joined: August 06, 2005
KitMaker: 656 posts
Armorama: 642 posts
Posted: Friday, February 23, 2018 - 06:51 PM GMT+7

Quoted Text

Looks like an interesting tool. Now, where to find one, since online searches didn't locate a local retailer.



As Ian said, Tamiya have a very similar version
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QX1yl2R-bQI

John - Nein , Nein. You must build the whole kit, not just one part!!!

Glad you are still able to take part John. And I hope you team does well - Do you still call it taking the pennant in baseball? Or is that just major league.

Us Aussies are not that big on baseball but there is still a National league here....
GazzaS
#424
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Queensland, Australia
Joined: April 23, 2015
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Posted: Friday, February 23, 2018 - 06:43 PM GMT+7
No Problem, John. I'll make a change to the database.

Gaz
JohnDoe4th
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California, United States
Joined: March 03, 2016
KitMaker: 86 posts
Armorama: 82 posts
Posted: Friday, February 23, 2018 - 05:33 PM GMT+7
Well Gents.. sad to say, I'm going to put the Greif on the back burner for now. Its baseball season again (manager again w/ no kid in program) and I have little time for that build.

With that said, I'm would like to enter a new build with Gaz blessing of course. The 88mm flak-pak units Zundapp KS 750. With the little time I have, I should be able to finish this build by the dead line.



Tamiya 35017 is the kit that the zundapp comes from.

Pic below says a little info about the Zundapp used in North Afrika.


Pic was taking from AK Interactive DAK profile guide.

John

Pave-Hawk
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Western Australia, Australia
Joined: May 05, 2006
KitMaker: 700 posts
Armorama: 413 posts
Posted: Friday, February 23, 2018 - 01:01 PM GMT+7
I have that same tool, but Tamiya branded and black.
johhar
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Alabama, United States
Joined: September 22, 2008
KitMaker: 376 posts
Armorama: 351 posts
Posted: Friday, February 23, 2018 - 12:34 PM GMT+7
Looks like an interesting tool. Now, where to find one, since online searches didn't locate a local retailer.
petbat
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Queensland, Australia
Joined: August 06, 2005
KitMaker: 656 posts
Armorama: 642 posts
Posted: Friday, February 23, 2018 - 09:58 AM GMT+7
Glad you got over the hump Rory. I have enjoyed watching your builds in other threads.

Do it little by little Johhar and you will be fine. Scribe a line on the bottom where the 'hood' joins the rear section. Use a metal ruler and the back of the exacto blade, not the edge side, or if you have one, a P cutter. A P Cutter is great as it removes a fine strip of plastic an even depth if you maintain even pressure, instead of stressing the styrene apart like a cutting blade does. This is the type I have


Scribe until you are happy with the depth, check with the blade point how far down you have gone, but don't go too deep or you may risk snapping the join.

Then scrape away the plastic either side of the line until the scribe line disappears - then you know how thin you have made the styrene all along the join.

Good luck
GazzaS
#424
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Queensland, Australia
Joined: April 23, 2015
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Posted: Friday, February 23, 2018 - 08:49 AM GMT+7
Rory,
I'm glad you got past your burn out. Sometimes we all need a little something else.

Gaz
johhar
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Alabama, United States
Joined: September 22, 2008
KitMaker: 376 posts
Armorama: 351 posts
Posted: Friday, February 23, 2018 - 07:11 AM GMT+7
Peter, I took your advice and started by trying to make the back flush since it's mostly horizontal. With a little or a lot of work, that shouldn't be too hard. It also allowed me to see exactly where to start the bend of the front of the top that you identified as being necessary. I think your approach is the best so that's the plan. Now all that's needed is the execution without screwing everything up.
McRunty
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Missouri, United States
Joined: April 06, 2016
KitMaker: 129 posts
Armorama: 83 posts
Posted: Friday, February 23, 2018 - 06:12 AM GMT+7
No pictures yet but I started on my Matilda last night. First model building I've done since mid December apart from cleaning up some tracks. I was seriously burned out.

So far I have to say its going together really well. I have built up some of the hull and started on the running gear. Much more progress (and pics) to come this weekend.

Once its done and painted I will get started on all the "fiddly" bits (crew, stowage etc) for both the Sd.Kfz 222 and the Matilda
Pave-Hawk
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Western Australia, Australia
Joined: May 05, 2006
KitMaker: 700 posts
Armorama: 413 posts
Posted: Thursday, February 22, 2018 - 08:43 PM GMT+7
Fortunately the Bronco links didn't need glue, and were workable.
GazzaS
#424
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Queensland, Australia
Joined: April 23, 2015
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Posted: Thursday, February 22, 2018 - 08:38 PM GMT+7
Zsolt,
I'm glad you like the picture. Will it fit the rest of the decor?

Iain,
Assembling the tracks is something I'm not looking forward, to. I'm gonna use my tackiest glue.

Peter,
SSShhhhhhhhh!!

Gaz
petbat
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Queensland, Australia
Joined: August 06, 2005
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Posted: Thursday, February 22, 2018 - 07:45 PM GMT+7
Hang on Gaz, I think I see a seam line on link number 113 and maybe no 67

Johar, good luck wrestling the lid down. fingers crossed for you
Pave-Hawk
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Western Australia, Australia
Joined: May 05, 2006
KitMaker: 700 posts
Armorama: 413 posts
Posted: Thursday, February 22, 2018 - 07:24 PM GMT+7

Quoted Text

How much space is required for 220 Valentine track links?


Luckily, Miniart molded the track links so that the ejector marks were all on the sprue and not on the tracks. This saved a lot of work.

Gaz



I've done two sets of Bronco Valentine tracks and they were painful(literally, fitting them together left indents in my fingers if I did too many at one sitting). I also have a Miniart Valentine sitting on the shelf awaiting another bout of masochism.
Ramanathan
#477
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Pest, Hungary
Joined: March 21, 2007
KitMaker: 98 posts
Armorama: 96 posts
Posted: Thursday, February 22, 2018 - 07:17 PM GMT+7

Quoted Text

How much space is required for 220 Valentine track links?


Luckily, Miniart molded the track links so that the ejector marks were all on the sprue and not on the tracks. This saved a lot of work.

Gaz



Gaz, what a great picture! I can imagine it on my kitchen's wall in big
cheers,
Zsolt
GazzaS
#424
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Queensland, Australia
Joined: April 23, 2015
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Posted: Thursday, February 22, 2018 - 06:31 PM GMT+7
How much space is required for 220 Valentine track links?


Luckily, Miniart molded the track links so that the ejector marks were all on the sprue and not on the tracks. This saved a lot of work.

Gaz
GazzaS
#424
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Queensland, Australia
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Posted: Thursday, February 22, 2018 - 02:59 PM GMT+7
Johhar,
I'm glad you can report forward progress. I'm glad we have Peter to help us through some of our problems.

Gaz
GazzaS
#424
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Queensland, Australia
Joined: April 23, 2015
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Posted: Thursday, February 22, 2018 - 02:58 PM GMT+7

Quoted Text



@ Gaz, Congrats on the finish of your pz3 and figures, awesome job! You mentioned a few post back about a Dio and a 2nd build. what's on your bench next for the 2nd build?


John



John,
Thank you very much! The partner in the dio will be the Miniart Valentine:

Now about the Miniart Valentine: From what I've learned(from reading and talking to members of my SIG AMMS Brisbane, all marks except for one served in North Africa. The one that served in Russia only was the Canadian built Valentine which had a cast front end. Miniart just took their regular Valentine(without cast front end), threw in some Russian tankers, and called it the Russian Mark.

Gaz
johhar
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Alabama, United States
Joined: September 22, 2008
KitMaker: 376 posts
Armorama: 351 posts
Posted: Thursday, February 22, 2018 - 02:12 PM GMT+7
I was a little premature in declaring victory with the side panels but with more work and patience they are fitting nicely with the front looking pretty good where that little triangle dips into the lower chassis on each side. I now have to deal with the gap Peter mentioned where the top doesn't quite bend at the correct angle. I will try to avoid having to bend the top, as I'm afraid of damaging it, but if I have to I will. For some reason, I remember the Ausf. D as having less of an issue with fit.
JohnDoe4th
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California, United States
Joined: March 03, 2016
KitMaker: 86 posts
Armorama: 82 posts
Posted: Thursday, February 22, 2018 - 01:54 PM GMT+7
That's some outstanding work Gents!! The PE and the scratch work are just amazing!! Keep it up!!

@ Gaz, Congrats on the finish of your pz3 and figures, awesome job! You mentioned a few post back about a Dio and a 2nd build. what's on your bench next for the 2nd build?


John
GazzaS
#424
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Queensland, Australia
Joined: April 23, 2015
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Posted: Thursday, February 22, 2018 - 11:29 AM GMT+7
Eek! Wasn't expecting that.
petbat
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Queensland, Australia
Joined: August 06, 2005
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Posted: Wednesday, February 21, 2018 - 06:53 PM GMT+7

Quoted Text

Peter,
I appreciate the tutorials! I was really starting to think about avoiding the entire 250-251 series.

Gaz



It would not be the calming, stress relieving hobby it is if everything went to together perfectly and we did not have to wrestle them into shape Gaz.

I find the best way to do them is glue the rear onto the upper hull section and let that dry. Then tape the side panels to the floor section and then tape the top and rear to the side panels and check for fit. You may need to trim in places like the bottom of the side panels like Johar did.

Once you have it basically fitting as it should glue the side panels to the bottom whist still having them taped to the top (glue from inside the openings where you can). That will keep the angles you need. Then when you are ready to glue the top down later, there should be less issues than glueing the sides down without bracing with the top. And do not put the side bins on until the sides have set on an Ausf C or 250 Alt (ausf A)to make sure the sides remain at the correct angle. Do not put them on an Ausf D or 250 Neu (Ausf B) until the roof is secured. That way you can make sure the top of the hull sits on the top of the bins on the latter.

Take heart though, you won't have these issues - skip to 1.45 mins:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8yf_QTbDeWM
GazzaS
#424
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Queensland, Australia
Joined: April 23, 2015
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Posted: Wednesday, February 21, 2018 - 05:59 PM GMT+7
Peter,
I appreciate the tutorials! I was really starting to think about avoiding the entire 250-251 series.

Gaz
GazzaS
#424
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Queensland, Australia
Joined: April 23, 2015
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Posted: Wednesday, February 21, 2018 - 05:58 PM GMT+7
Johhar,
I've only built one 251, and that was the old Tamiya Hanomag kit. I remember it didn't want to fit, either.

Gaz
GazzaS
#424
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Queensland, Australia
Joined: April 23, 2015
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Posted: Wednesday, February 21, 2018 - 05:56 PM GMT+7
Damian,
Welcome to the campaign! I'm just starting a Miniart Valentine. It'll be interesting seeing how Tamiya compares to Miniart. I'm still separating the indi-links from their sprues.

Gaz
petbat
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Queensland, Australia
Joined: August 06, 2005
KitMaker: 656 posts
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Posted: Wednesday, February 21, 2018 - 04:02 PM GMT+7

Quoted Text

First attempt to mate all the sub-assemblies of my 251 was a complete failure. Time to retire to a good drink and pick it up another day.



SOP for the Dragon 251 and 250 half tracks. The hull top never wants to fit properly on the hull bottom.

It is worse on the 250 Neu as the hull top sits completely flat from tip to tail, but the front of the lower hull slopes down. This is with the front taped down and under a little stress, note the in front of the tape on the right - imagine how big that gets when the rear of the upper hull is pressed down


Only way to fix that was remove a lot of styrene from under where the "hood" meets the "view port plate" and along the hood join so you could bend the whole hood down at the two joins. Here is where I removed the part at the view port plate join:



Result:


So good luck, I hope it works out for you second attempt